ROML89 La Mode: Fashion in French Culture
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Activities
Activity 1. You know the topics you selected for your research project? Brainstorm a few common keywords or search terms for your different topics and work with your research peers to find two relevant scholarly sources, a book and an article. Search the library catalog for a book and one of these databases for an article: Art & Architecture Source, Academic Search Premier, or Historical Abstracts. Be prepared to share your findings with the class.
Activity 2. Look for one of the articles below and consider the following questions:
- Who produced this source? Is the author’s biography (i.e., viewpoints and personal background) relevant to understanding this source? Did he or she have an agenda? Does the author provide a bibliography?
- When was this source created? Where?
- Why did the author produce this source? For what audience and purpose?
- Is it a work of scholarship, fiction, art, or propaganda? Is it a scholarly article or an article from a popular journal?
1) Gundle, S. (1999). Mapping the origins of glamour: Giovanni Boldini, Paris and the Belle Époque. Journal of European Studies, 29(3), 269-295.
2) Stewart, M. L. (2005). Copying and Copyrighting Haute Couture: Democratizing Fashion,1900-1930s. French Historical Studies, 28(1), 103-130.
3) Hatcher, J., & Dukovic, P. (2015, March 23). Twenty-One Dresses. The New Yorker. Retrieved September 21, 2020, from https://www-newyorker-com.libproxy.lib.unc.edu/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses
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The Dress Codes of the Uprising4) Think they don’t exist? Think again. As the social justice protests enter a new stage, so, too, does the imagery that defines them.
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The Fashion Industry Has Failed Black People—Here’s What Needs to Change5) From Harper's Bazaar - Four industry professionals talk barriers to success, racial disparity, and what brands and publications need to do to move forward.
6) Majer, M. (2018). Plus que reine: The napoleonic revival in belle epoque theatre and fashion. Theatre Symposium, 26, 11-39,142.
Interlibrary Loan
Can't find the article, book, or report you need at our library? You can request it from another library through interlibrary loan.
Finding books
Start with a keyword search in the catalog. Once you have located a relevant item, you can look at the Library of Congress Subject Headings within the full record tab and follow those links to find related books.
You can also refine your search by using the features on the left side of the screen.
- Keyword: fashion and France
- Associated subjects: clothing -- dress -- France
- Associated subjects: fashion -- France -- history
- Keyword: street fashion
- Associated subjects: fashion -- social aspects
- Associated subjects: fashion -- history -- 20th century
**Tip for browsing the stacks**
Important Library of Congress Classification Ranges for your research
GT500-2370 (floor 4 in Davis Library) Costume. Dress. Fashion
TT490-695 (floor 8 in Davis Library) Clothing manufacture. Dressmaking. Tailoring
**Remember to visit Sloane Library, the art library on campus**
Librarian
Joanneke Elliott
Contact:
919-962-3700
Call Numbers in Davis Library
Books
Example books:
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The World Atlas of Street Fashion by An extensively researched and generously illustrated volume offering a striking and diverse portrait of street style in cities and cultures around the world Since the early 20th century, city sidewalks have become runways where idiosyncratic modes of dressing are presented, consumed, and exported. Their messages include resistance, solidarity, subversion, social transformation, or musical affiliation, and a group of like-minded individuals can create a powerful sartorial force. Organized by continent and with 600 color images, The World Atlas of Street Fashion examines street style in all its global diversity. The book shows how Punk's generic language of anarchy is redeployed in London, Berlin, Tokyo, or Jakarta and takes on the unique flavor of each. It also reveals how street style can be overtly political: the Sapeurs of Kinshasa use elegance to reframe themselves as gentlemen, and the cholo gangs of East Los Angeles took strength from the Chicano movement of the 1960s. Street style can also be obsessive, as seen here through the K-Pop enthusiasts of Seoul, who inhabit the lives of their music idols by re-creating publicity stills through elaborate cosplay. The author discusses how such scenes can develop cachet by being underground, fostering a look's distinctiveness and integrity. Through its extensive research, striking photography, and handsome design, World Atlas of Street Fashion is the essential resource on world street style.ISBN: 9780300224030Publication Date: 2017-09-26 -
Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968 by A captivating look at Parisian fashions of the 1960s and how the ready-to-wear revolution influenced haute couture The 1960s was one of the most exciting periods in fashion history, as shifting cultural paradigms were embraced by a generation of designers that challenged conventions and reinvented the fashion industry. This compelling volume focuses on the important but too often dismissed fashions that were created in Paris during this time. From the early couture designs of Yves Saint Laurent that initiated a trend toward a more relaxed and youthful style, to the popularity of ready-to-wear fashions by Emmanuelle Khanh - part of a new group known as the stylists - this book traces the development of Parisian fashion during the 1960s and its continuing legacy. Colleen Hill features eye-catching images from Elle and Vogue, as well as stunning examples of fashion from The Museum at FIT's world-class collection. She provides an in-depth look at the combined influences of French haute couture, ready-to-wear, and popular culture during this era. In doing so, she describes how the dominance of haute couture was challenged by the ready-to-wear movement, resulting in the rise of a vibrant, youthful, and modern aesthetic in Parisian fashion. ISBN: 9780300226072Publication Date: 2017-02-21 -
The History of Modern Fashion by Shortlisted for the Costume Society of America Millia Davenport Publication Award (2016), this lavishly illustrated book looks at the history of fashion from 1850 to 2010. Taking a decade-by-decade approach, Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl explore the history of fashion as a lively and dynamic manifestation of twentieth-century culture. Covering chronological changes in womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear, the book looks at the dissemination of style and the mechanisms of change,at the relationship between fashion and the visual, applied, and performing arts, the intertwined relationship between fashion and popular culture, the impact of new materials and technology, and the growing globalization of style. Illustrated with photographs of costume from museums and images from the fashion press including editorial photography, illustrations, and advertising, the book will include insights into icons of fashion and the clothes worn by "real people", providing a valuable visual reference for the reader.ISBN: 9781780676036Publication Date: 2015-09-15 -
Fashion in Impressionist Paris by Even before the advent of haute couture, Paris was a great centre of fashion. During the second half of the nineteenth century, when the capital was transformed by an ambitious urban plan, its residents responded in kind, wearing styles as polished and modern as the city itself in order to participate in the exciting new social scene. Featuring famed paintings by such Impressionist masters as Degas, Cassatt, Manet, Monet and Morisot, this delightful book revisits the world of Parisian fashion through the eyes of first-hand observers. Thematic chapters present a gallery-like ensemble of paintings that follow in the footsteps of stylish Parisians as they stroll in the parks and boulevards, meet friends at cafés, take in the theatre, relax at home and go on holiday. In an extended narrative-style caption to accompany each image, fashion and art historian Debra N. Mancoff offers a detailed discussion of what men and women wore and how their dress defined them. To complete the picture, illustrated interludes, providing glimpses into dressmaking, corsetry and millinery, the origins of couture and the rise of the department store, reveal how Paris became the fashion capital of the world.ISBN: 9781858945828Publication Date: 2012-09-18 -
Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion by Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion places philosophical approaches at the heart of contemporary fashion studies. Considering the mutual relationships between aesthetics, modern society and culture, fashion and the fine arts, and the way these relationships have influenced and shaped our views on identity and taste, this ground-breaking book also explores the various intellectual and cultural movements that inform how people dress. In the context of the most recent debates, the leading fashion and philosophy scholars contributing to this volume refer to and apply theories posed by key thinkers of the modern and contemporary age, from Darwin and Wittgenstein to Husserl and Goodman, in order to answer questions such as: What is the essence of fashion and the reasons behind its fascination? What is 'anti-fashion'? What or who do we imitate when we 'follow' fashion? What is fashion criticism and what should it be? Anyone studying or interested in fashion, philosophy or art will find this book a rich source of ideas, insight and information. Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion is a valuable contribution to contemporary fashion theory and aesthetics, one that revitalizes the way we look at the form, purpose and meaning of fashion and aesthetic experience.ISBN: 9781474237468Publication Date: 2016-12-01 -
Chanel by A luxurious book that showcases the spirit and essence of Chanel's iconic style through the medium of fashion photography Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) was undoubtedly the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. Her clothes and accessories have remained perennially chic, and her legendary fashion house continues to exert a powerful sway over today's designers. Jérôme Gautier tells the story of Chanel's iconic style through hundreds of images, many taken by the leading lights of fashion photography, including Richard Avedon, Gilles Bensimon, Patrick Demarchelier, Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz, Man Ray, Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, and Ellen von Unwerth. This innovative volume pairs classic and contemporary photographs, placing fashion plates from Chanel's time alongside those by the house's designer-in-chief, Karl Lagerfeld. For instance, Cecil Beaton's portrait of Chanel appears alongside Lagerfeld's image of Cate Blanchett emulating her, and a classic plate by Henry Clarke flanks an arresting shot by Juergen Teller. Through these dazzling photographs, Chanel: The Vocabulary of Style identifies key elements that have defined Chanel's style for generations, such as jersey and tweed, formerly considered menswear fabrics, and the little black dress, which transformed a hue previously reserved for mourning into a statement of elegance. Pearls were her staple, and she often embellished outfits with her signature camellia. Eleven chapters compare the original forms of these enduring trademarks with their later expressions over the years and to the present day, letting the vocabulary of Chanel's style speak for itself.ISBN: 9780300175660Publication Date: 2011-11-29 -
Fashion since 1900 by From the styles of the early 1900s to those of the twenty-first century, John Peacock charts the development of women's fashion in all its aspects: couture wear, leisure wear, day wear, evening wear, bridal wear, underwear, and accessories. Fashion's greatest designers and designs are all here: from Worth's visiting dress, Chanel's suits, Balenciaga's classic gowns, Dior's New Look, and Mary Quant's mini-dresses to recent designs from the collections of Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, and others.Photography could never capture so faithfully the dazzling variety of these designs. Indeed, many that predate the advent of color photography have never been shown in their original colors. John Peacock's wide-ranging research, using paintings, photographs, and the garments themselves, has allowed him to reproduce in meticulous detail lines, shapes, weaves, patterns, and colors. Arranged by decade, the drawings are accompanied by complete descriptions of each garment and accessory, including the fabric, cut, and pattern.In this revised edition of Peacock's standard book, 155 new drawings have been added, together with detailed descriptions. The updated reference section includes a time chart summarizing the development of fashion, biographies of couturiers and designers, and a bibliography.ISBN: 9780500513453Publication Date: 2007-05-14 -
Fashion Victims by This engrossing book chronicles one of the most exciting, controversial, and extravagant periods in the history of fashion: the reign of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette in 18th-century France. Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell offers a carefully researched glimpse into the turbulent era’s sophisticated and largely female-dominated fashion industry, which produced courtly finery as well as promoted a thriving secondhand clothing market outside the royal circle. She discusses in depth the exceptionally imaginative and uninhibited styles of the period immediately before the French Revolution, and also explores fashion’s surprising influence on the course of the Revolution itself. The absorbing narrative demonstrates fashion’s crucial role as a visible and versatile medium for social commentary, and shows the glittering surface of 18th-century high society as well as its seedy underbelly. Fashion Victims presents a compelling anthology of trends, manners, and personalities from the era, accompanied by gorgeous fashion plates, portraits, and photographs of rare surviving garments. Drawing upon documentary evidence, previously unpublished archival sources, and new information about aristocrats, politicians, and celebrities, this book is an unmatched study of French fashion in the late 18th century, providing astonishing insight, a gripping story, and stylish inspiration.ISBN: 9780300154382Publication Date: 2015-02-10 -
Having It All in the Belle Epoque by At once deeply historical and surprisingly timely, Having it All in the Belle Epoque shows how the debates that continue to captivate high-achieving women in America and Europe can be traced back to the early 1900s in France. The first two photographic magazines aimed at women, Femina and La Vie Heureuse created a female role model who could balance age-old convention with new equalities. Often referred to simply as the "modern woman," this captivating figure embodied the hopes and dreams as well as the most pressing internal conflicts of large numbers of French women during what was a period of profound change. Full of never-before-studied images of the modern French woman in action, Having it All shows how these early magazines exploited new photographic technologies, artistic currents, and literary trends to create a powerful model of French femininity, one that has exerted a lasting influence on French expression.This book introduces and explores the concept of Belle Epoque literary feminism, a product of the elite milieu from which the magazines emerged. Defined by its refusal of political engagement, this feminism was nevertheless preoccupied with expanding women's roles, as it worked to construct a collective fantasy of female achievement. Through an astute blend of historical research, literary criticism, and visual analysis, Mesch's study of women's magazines and the popular writers associated with them offers an original window onto a bygone era that can serve as a framework for ongoing debates about feminism, femininity, and work-life tensions.ISBN: 9780804784245Publication Date: 2013-07-03 -
European Fashion by The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system tothe new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumerexpectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the culturalhistory of business.ISBN: 9781526122100Publication Date: 2018-03-17 -
The Language of Fashion by Roland Barthes, widely regarded as one of the most subtle and perceptive critics of the 20th Century, was particularly fascinated by fashion and clothing. The Language of Fashion brings together all Barthes' untranslated writings on fashion.The Language of Fashion presents a set of remarkable essays, revealing the breadth and insight of Barthes' long engagement with the history of clothes. The essays range from closely argued essays laying down the foundations for a structural and semiological analysis of clothing to a critical analysis of the significance of gemstones and jewellery, from an exploration of how the contrasting styles of Courrges and Chanel replayed the clash between ancient and modern to a discussion of the meaning of hippy style in Morocco, and from the nature of desire to the role of the dandy and colour in fashion.Constantly questioning, always changing, Barthes' ideas about clothes and fashion remain to provoke another generation of readers seeking to understand not only the culture of fashion but the fashion of culture.ISBN: 9781845203801Publication Date: 2006-02-01 -
Paris Fashion by This beautifully illustrated new edition ofParis Fashion examines the history and culture of style in the fashion capital from the 14th century through to the present day. Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele'sParis Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture - created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.ISBN: 9781635570892Publication Date: 2017-09-19 -
Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion by From diapers to Dior, saris to serapes, the world of clothing is nearly as vast and as ancient as the human race. Tracing the stylistic and functional threads that unite clothing across time and cultures, as well as delving into the divergent styles and significance of apparel, this A to Z encyclopedia is the essential resource for exploring the relationship between culture and couture. A new addition to the Scribner Daily Life series, which includes the best-selling Encyclopedia of Food and Culture, this broad-based encyclopedia surveys clothing and body adornment, and examines the origins of clothing, the development of fabrics and technologies, and the social meanings of dress. It also presents information on representative costumes from a wide variety of historical eras. Topics range from the bustle, sari, and toga to Polyester and body piercing. cocktail dress, bathing suit, burqua, Nehru jacket), techniques and manufactures (batik, dry cleaning, zipper, stone washing), body adornment (makeup, mask, tattoo, wig), and important persons and institutions (Coco Chanel, Edith Head, Yves Saint-Laurent, Fashion Institute of Technology). The longer essays provide cultural context: class, gender, sumptuary laws, costume design for stage and screen, advertising; fashion careers; ecclesiastical dress; military uniforms; etc. The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion includes a comprehensive general index in the last volume, a timeline, and a topical outline. From the secondary school student writing a paper on dress among Native Americans to the university student interested in the underpinnings of clothing design, this set represents a unique and valuable source.ISBN: 9780684313948Publication Date: 2004-09-22
- Last Updated: Jan 4, 2021 3:01 PM
- URL: https://guides.lib.unc.edu/ROML89
